Transaxle assembly and installation
As I have stated numerous times before, follow the instruction manual. It is very thorough and complete. Use vasoline to hold thrust washer and bearings in place. Since I did not disassemble the differential side gears, you can eliminate the steps of checking differential clearances. Just reuse the shims that were in your transaxle. Make sure you install a new seal on the filter. The filter does not come with a new seal attached. It is a component of the master kit.
Make sure you air check the transaxle prior to installing the converter case cover and valve body. There are instruction in the rebuild master kit that tell you where to apply compressed air. Never exceed 40 PSI when testing or you may blow out a piston seal.
If you have things installed properly, you will hear a thump as each piston engages. If you hear a hissing or popping noise, most likely you damaged a piston seal and you need to go back and fix it.
Put a quart of ATF in the torque converter. Install the converter in the transaxle just prior to going back into the vehicle. Note, the converter must be fully engaged on the oil pump drive shaft and the converter support shaft. Spin the converter and apply pressure. You’ll know when it engages. It will just “drop” into place.
Just follow the manual. It is just a reverse of the removal process. Torque everything to required settings. The hardest part is getting the converter studs to line up with the flexplate holes. If the converter has been installed correctly, the studs will stick through the flexplate just enough to start the nuts. Tightening the nuts will pull the converter against the flexplate surface.
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